Can I use a tack cloth after sanding instead of turpentine on a damp cloth? I have parquet floors in a boat and when they were refinished in the past it looks like some filler may have been used at some areas that had grown small gaps. The end is near and again, I am blown away by your skills and perseverance. It might be best to strip it off and try again but since it sounds like its only a few isolated spots, Id hate to see you do all that. It feels like such a professional finish now. If you do read this, what say you? How about a light wet sand with, say, 2000 grit after full cure? You wont see it looking head-on in a bright light situation, but if you view it from an angle in front of a light source they will stick out like a sore thumb. I would actually try to contact them for advice. Id want something very durable, and the oil-based finish Ive been the most impressed with for table tops is Minwax Polyurethane. When I did the finishing originally, I did it according to the instructions that I had found on several videos, which all said to sand the wood to a 120-grit finish and then add the Rubio Monocoat finish. Thanks. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. This is the kind of thing thats worth experimenting with before committing on an actual project. My question is about glue up. When not possible I just use clean shop rags. But maple does have a tendency to blotch so that could still be an issue with their dyed varieties. The table has been drying for 3 days and the lines are still there. I realize that Rubio says they cant guarantee it will work, but no one seems to know the answer in the internet tubes. Hi Marc, Your email address will not be published. Its close but I wouldnt say it really nails the authentic color. Turpentined and Do you how the wood grain filler might react with Rubio Monocoat? Not sure how that compares to Festool pads as I have never used those, but Surbufs are pretty inexpensive and they do a great job with Rubio. Allow the previously oiled wood to dry at least 24-36 hours (granted the drying conditions are favorable). We recommend a final 120 grit abrasive. Since then, my preferences and sensibilities have changed and now Im continually searching for the safest and most effective finish strategies. By the way, Osmo is another product I like a lot and maybe Ill do a similar application video on that in the future. 1 Liter finishes approx 300-500 square feet. Kiln-drying would have to do but that gave me some idea of how finicky it is. I waited a month for full cure then used UMO which gave an even nicer sheen. I was thinking Johnsons Paste Wax, but Ive been told once I go down that road, the table wont take other products. After 180, water-pop the surface by spraying liberally with water. Always follow the usage, safety, and disposal instructions as outlined on the TDS or website from the manufacturer of the chemical paint stripper. Thats not to say that you wont have the same opinion even after applying it correctly as its not the right finish for everyone, but I think its a bit unfair to make a definitive call on the finish when the preparation was flawed. Thanks for your video! If I didnt do a great job wiping off the excess product and now its a little tacky and sticky in some places, what do you recommend I do to fix it? Hi Mark! Itisa very easy-to-use product, even if you have limited skills in refinishing wood furniture. Would you use this finish on a dining table? I working on refinishing an old oak dining table, and am a complete novice to this task. Do you have a recomended rubio color to achieve a dark walnut look? The guy who made the table sanded it to 320. Rubio usually recommend not sanding past 150 because the oil binds more effectively at lower grits. The finish will just take longer to cure: 3 weeks vs 7 days with the accelerator. I havent tried Rubio monocoat before so I was looking for tips. I don't think you'll have to be too thorough. But from what youve described, it sounds like your finishing is on hold until the temps go up a bit. It feels very much like a professional finish, and dust wipes right off of it very easily. All content on The Wood Whisperer is copyrighted, and may not be reprinted in full form without my written consent. I dont have a LOT of experience with the dyed varieties. We have a reclaimed white oak table we are looking to finish using the Rubio 2c product. Now let the piece sit for 24 hrs before handling and remember, it takes 7 days to fully cure. Removal by sanding is a process where you start with a coarse grit to remove the coating from a wood surface. The application of Oil Plus 2C is not a complicated process. Thats the joy of this kind of finish, you actually can spot treat areas without having major issues. But by how much? Caring for your Rubio Monocoat oil finishedsurfaceis simple, and when done properly, keeps yourfurniturelooking beautiful for a lifetime. They might even change the directions on the product container. I was very pressed for time, but I decided that it would be worth it in the end to give these pieces another sanding and another coat of the Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C. . I dont think you should have to do much sanding unless the wood itself is truly damaged. ALL finishes will feel and look like crap if you raise the grain and dont sand it back. Also, Id there a waiting period between spreading with the white scotchbright and buffing with the terry cloth? Applied the finish then used the white pad on a festoon sander. I havent but theres no reason you cant. I had a little bit of frustration trying to get these vanities in place because, working in an old house, nothing is ever level, square, or plumb. Do you think the Rubio is durable enough to use on a countertop? Almost time to change the color on your floor plan chart, for this bathroom! Use Rubio Raw Wood Cleaner (optional). I wasnt expecting it to actually look any different with the second coat, but it did. I order a sample in Bourbon so will try that soon. Any oil that gets on a glue surface will adversely impact the glue bond. If I wanted to refinish in smoke, can I just simply sand the cotton white off to raw wood and apply smoke using the same steps? and Marc juice as a basecoat has helped some. But the speed is always on high. If the tops are clean and look the way you want them to look, you can probably just apply the Rubio. Again, the leg with the original finish (sanded to 120-grit and one coat of Rubio Monocoat) has a slight rough feel to it, and dust doesnt wipe off easily. Used Rubio on a walnut bathroom vanity countertop with vessel sink. Applying Rubio is a simple 4-step process. Hmm.Rubio doesnt do so well when left in a thick layer so it may never truly cure. Seems like I cannot find anything similar at my local home depot/lowes. There are 6 sections, each less than 72 inches wide. At this point, I think Id just let it roll and see if it firms up enough at some point that you can buff it out or lightly sand the bright areas. Any longer than that and the finish becomes hard to remove. Just dont press too hard and get wax on the surface. You can apply down to 40F but you can expect the dry/cure time to be extended by quite a bit. Let this dry for 45min - 1hr before applying oil I usually use Pure which is essentially clear. Ive seen a couple of vids of people doing a second coat to give it a wee bit more sheen. I am struggling with staining the new Douglas fir baseboards and window trim. I assume you cannot increase sheen with one of these products (other than the maintenance oil you mentioned), but do you know if you can sand the OSMO gloss back to a semi gloss or satin? But Im wondering if I should go to 150? But if the surface is already sealed, that might have no impact. I can only say I havent seen that myself. Im sure youll get similar advice from each company as they cant guarantee performance if you go outside of their family of products. pictures. Rags saturated in oil are combustible and require proper disposal. I sanded to 150, water poped the surface and then sanded to 150. While they are both hardwax oils, that doesnt mean they share the same chemistry and components and unpredictable things may happen. Planing severs the fibers and leaves them wide open for finish. Also, we have strong dripping lines along the edges of the slab even though we immediately buffed product into the slab edges immediately afterwards. Thanks for all the great content. Should I use Hybrid Wood Protector or WoodCream? Madrone is a weird wood. So I definitely do not recommend this approach. This is so easy to use, wayyyy less fumes, great finish and protection. We have a redwood slab that we did Rubios on and it came out beautiful except you can see the lines were we initially poured the product on. I applied a coat of Rubio Pre-Aging to an oak table top. This means one application and you get color and protection! Coarse enough to clean up any dents or imperfections on the block but smooth enough you won't leave visible scratches if you do a gentle once over before you finish. Im about to tackle a live edge walnut console table and ordered the Rubio mono coat as it seams like a good choice for beginners. I routinely finish to 2000P and finish with Rubio Monocoat on coffee tables and other low traffic furniture. if anyone has any additional questions, I am available to answer them :). Is a clear epoxy best, if so do you have a brand recommendation? So a light sanding and reappliction in the affected areas should do the trick. Just be careful with the contractor since some of them are unfamiliar with Rubio or hardwax oils in general, and they might be resisting simply because they want to use a product the know will work. I gave everything another sanding using 220-grit sandpaper, and then applied the second coat just like the first coat (mix according to the directions, apply with a white spongy applicator, wait about 10 minutes, wipe off excess and buff with a clean cloth). Can I apply the Rubio before I glue it together? In fact, the finish felt just a bit rough, and it was rough enough that if I tried to wipe off dust, the roughness of the wood would grab onto the dust rather than it wiping off. Link to my results included, I think they turned out rather well! Try it on scrap first and only apply VERY thin coats and wipe off all the excess. Can I use an 600 or 800 grit pad to smooth or do I wait 7 days or use the maintenance oil and white pad again??? Rubio Monocoat is made up of two main components - the oil and an accelerator. Youre right to be concerned. In this case, follow the below procedure. You can certainly sand the rough spots after the first coat. Im a newbie). Thanks. Would it seem reasonable to you to let them know about the result you got with two coats and include photos to show them? This ensures that our oils are eco-friendly, are easy to apply and of superior quality. Of course, this isnt finished yet. Perhaps one coat is enough for other species of wood. On the Rubio website I like the looks of walnut, savanah and black but will that shade be the result on rubberwood? Rubio Monocoat has been around for quite some time now and I remember receiving a sample over 10 years ago back when epoxy was an adhesive and before slabs were discovered (sarcasm). Hi Marc, So glad you have learned to listen to your gut and not be afraid to redo. If the lines are still there after a little time goes by, you might just be looking at a do-over. 1) in spots, it is a little rough. How would finish hold up to direct sun exposure? Short of stripping and re-finishing, what do you recommend on top of the Rubio? That meant that I had to get the walls behind the vanities finished to a certain point, and then I had to get the vanities installed. Thanks for this information! But I love how the narrow panels look on the vanity side, so I wanted to match them. That meant that I had to make a decision on what to do about the finish on the vanities and the storage cabinet. The removal of an old coating from a wood furniture project may be a little challenging, but with the right tools and chemicals, it is not that hard to do. By clicking Accept, you consent to the use of ALL the cookies. Refinishing wood furniture like an old desk, chair or table is generally done to change the color or because the finish is old or worn. Hello, I also sanded to 320 then applied the stain and my white oak did not take the stain at all except in the pattern of the wood. I get that this is an off-label use of both products, but am i incorrect that using this method will preserve the ease of future recoats and touch ups with the rubio since they are both hardwax finishes? We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. I do nearly all my furniture in stain color that closely matches Greene and Greene stain. Maybe their outdoor products, but not the interior stuff. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. Do you think Rubios hardwax oil would work? Spread on, buff off. I cant say if its typical. Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. Depends on the filler. Hey Marc, thanks for the advice here. Am I able to sand some more at this point before applying my Oil Plus 2C? I have a shelf unit with about a dozen pieces put together with dados. If you want to see more about my DIY vanities and storage cabinet, you can find those posts here: If youd like to see all of the posts about this master bathroom remodel project, you can find those here: Master Bathroom Remodel From Start To Present (Still In Progress). If you want to follow my projects and progress, you can subscribe below and have each new post delivered to your email inbox. Master Bathroom Remodel From Start To Present (Still In Progress), I Really Am Making Progress On The Bathroom (But Im Still Facing The Biggest Hurdle), 30 Years Of DIYing, And I'm Still Learning!! I am not sure Rubio would have enough sheen for my project. I will be interested in hearing how its holding up against water/splashes a year from now. Or is there a good way to clean holes and imperfections of excess rubios monocoat? Thanks for the video, Marc. We spread FAST with spatulas very liberally, hand-rubbed with cotton rags, and finished up by hand-buffing with wool car-wax pads. We believe hardwax oil, specifically Oil Plus 2C, is an ideal wood finishing product. I hope you and Matt are still enjoying some outings! Addicted 2 Decorating is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. They provide a film-building finish that is typically applied in a 3-coat process. Yes definitely better with w/ 2 coats and finer sanding. Is this typical? See sanding instructions below but start with a finer grit. Clean and reapply or do a full sanding as if it was initial application? I did two coats with a week in between as I have seen several recommendations that gives a slightly higher sheen. Hey Bob. Could you use trans tint and a dewaxed shellac to help pop the grain prior to the application of Rubio? Ive never tried. The banisters are very intricate wkth lots of spindles, woven wood patterns with 1 gaps, etc, much influenced by Frank Loyd Wright and the arts and crafts movement. Marc, You can sort of rub them away if you catch them very quickly but I have a few seemingly permanent water stains already. The Wood Whisperer, The Wood Whisperer Guild, TWW, and TWW Guild are trademarks of The Wood Whisperer Inc. All rights reserved. I just need to keep working diligently, and Ill have a completely finished bathroom very soon. The project is a banister between a garage and home under a covered walkway, gets little direct sunlight. Hey Marc! Id there a wood filler that will work well with a dark colored Rubio finish? Rubio Monocoat oil has unrivalled characteristics. This hand dr, how I finished them with the Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C in the color Pure, DIY Table-Style Bathroom Vanity With Drawers (Part 1 The Basic Build), DIY Table-Style Bathroom Vanity With Drawers Finished! Apparently, OSMO, a product similar to Rubio (as you mentioned) offers a matte, satin and gloss sheen. If you want color and you want to use Rubio, try one of their colored products. I dont love filmy, shiny finishes or Id take your earlier advice of CPES and some coats of marine varnish. A little bit goes a long way. Raffle tickets are available now for just $5! It is a great example for me. Faucet tend to splash with low profile sink so I wipe with a towel after use. While ammonia will also leave a dark stain on floors finished with Rubio Monocoat, after the ammonia is cleaned and gentle abrasion is applied, the stain will lighten. ", "I have been holding out on using this product because traditional stain/finishes are so cheap but holy smokes, Ill never go back. I wanted to give yall a follow-up on my experience using Rubio Monocoat on the walnut vanities and storage cabinet in our master bathroom. I want to darken the maple just a bit but worried about it becoming blotchy. I am looking to finish a butcher block desk top made out of rubberwood, and I was initially thinking about using Waterlox, but now Im thinking about Rubio. Be the first to know about new products, helpful information, and promotions. Whether a little residual oil will cause a problem for Rubio is up in the air. But if you anticipate cleaning the cabinets repeatedly due to splashes, grease, or dirty hands, it might not be the best choice. Some will accept finish and some wont. Vacuum well and wipe clean with a dry rag. The Rubio Monocoat Gallery features images and information from large scale commercial jobs to small DIY projects. and is unable to do physical work, so I do the majority of the work on the house by myself. I have small children who will be beating up on this table on a daily basis and really like that Rubio Monocoat can be spot repaired if needed. With veneered surfaces, be careful not to damage the veneer as it is easy to sand through the thin veneer layer! No ill effects and the extra sanding brings outstanding detail to figured woods. Excellent for cleaning floors and required when applying Pre-Aging, Want to see what a color looks like on a real project? I finished a Hevea countertop with chocolate RMC. I sanded 80/120/150 with a touch of 220 to finish. Look for the telltale "pigtails" on the surface. The sanding part is 3 TIMES more demanding than regular finishes. Yeah I was thinking the buff / light sand option should do the trick. Is it easy enough to remove the current finish by sanding with 80 and then 120 and then just start over with the Pure? Im considering Rubio for a maple butcherblock, which I would like to warm up in color. All look great in master bath but the wall finish takes the cake outstanding. Now, I realize I should have sanded after last water pop. As for the dining table, thats what I showed in this video. I'd do the pencil mark trick once or twice. Ill let you know if I find a good formula. So you have to really commit and just slather it on. Thank you for making this possible. Marc, would you recommend Rubio for a workbench? Any ability to season-to-taste, sheen-wise? Proper sanding is critical for a professional result. Honestly you can do whatever you like. My husband and I have applied Rubio Pure to our maple hardwood floors using the buffer method seen in countless videos. The tools and techniques you use to accomplish these steps can vary. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The Wood Whisperer is proudly sponsored by brands that Marc trusts. Hey Marc, Im building a bathroom vanity with birch top and vessel sink. Continue excess removal untila clean rag doesn't pull product. Once all stripper and coating residue is removed, immediately follow with a clean-up solvent that is recommended by the manufacturer to remove traces of coating and chemical paint stripper residue. Start with a grit that is coarse enough to remove the old coating but do not use coarser grit sandpaper than needed. One question- if you going color/stain the wood, what product would you use and does that change the finish process at all ? I am looking at this for the next two projects for my daughter; the writing desk and the latest bed project which will both be in walnut. I suppose its something that could even out with time. We've written extensively about hardwax oils. Referencing the buffing pads, I have been using products from a company called Surbuf that has a large catalog. Will definitely try 220 on the end grain, thanks! I've seen Black Tail Studio and a couple other people sand up to 220/320 but that being said . Interesting. Glad you didnt settle. Some of the benefits of Oil Plus 2C are: 0% VOC Easy to apply Easy to maintain Can be locally repaired 50+ colors Certified Keeps the wood's natural look and feel How to apply Rubio Monocoat By the way, you dont have to use the accelerator. It created a beautiful finished product and exceeded expectations. This means temperatures at least in the 65-70F range, relative humidity (RH) around 50%, and plenty of air movement. Theyre available on Amazon. Spread on, buff off. An innovative wax-based cream with excellent water-repellancy. My though is to pre-able the 2C in the void areas then use the clear epoxy.
