Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Right. If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. My lift works by itself but not with a heavy load on it.. Thanks. (b) Operation of Valve. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? If the hydraulics dont go up at all, its likely that the ball socket is the problem (worn out or jumped out of place). If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see "perfectly straight" would not describe my control lever. "@context":"https://schema.org", If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. A premium full-synthetic that says it "MEETS" NH-410B (M2C-134D) is going to be the most expensive option, but it is also going to be the best all-season fluid and lubricant. "@type": "ImageObject", How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? If that link is bent, it needs to be straightened in a vise or press. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. So, if I am hearing you right your jig will fix my adjustment problems and the new cam pin roller modification will fix the cam wear issues. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. It consists of a pto driven piston type pump with internal control valves and a lift cylinder connected to the rear lift arms. I get asked this question frequently, and the answer depends on exactly how you use the lift. Simple to make from the hardware store. Zane I would cut a big V into the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod. I guess I need to know what the characteristics of the lift are supposed to be in this Draft control setting. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. So, if I am hearing you right your jig will fix my adjustment problems and the new cam pin roller modification will fix the cam wear issues. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. How's this procedure Zane? Wrong? Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. { Here are some suggestions to get you started fixing your tractor. } Before doing anything to the lift it should first be inspected for any internal leakage. Measure 1.7 - 1.75 inches forward from the front edge of this bolt hole. I'll hold off on that and try without first. The pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns. It goes in the lower front pivot bolster and looks like this. }, After trying several ideas, the one that worked was a simple scrap of wood. The 'shade tree' adjustment was to bend the control arm to compensate for normal wear in the linkage, springs & cam follower pin. The PTO shaft should spin when you release the clutch. If those two things check out ok turn off the engine and remove the right side access cover (the one with the dipstick) and slide your hand down along the control rod into the oil and feel the end of the rod where it goes into the control valve pivot. Then remove all three plugs, and let it drip into pans overnight. "mainEntityOfPage": { This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15. $97.57 $101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain. I do see it is bent as well. It is critical. I have watched you rebuild video twice and find it would be a great help if I needed to rebuild. Almost left this one out. I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. This one is a separate page Live Hydraulics. I have pulled the pump and cleaned the pump cavity. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. Right there in the slot as a STOP to prevent going higher. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. Of course we would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is apart . Two large plugs under the transmission, and hydraulic pump, and one smaller pipe plug under the differential housing. John Thanks for the suggestion. Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? My tractors are working tractors. I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. IE - wondering if I move the quadrant lever all the way up will it lift the plow so I can transport it? BE CAREFUL! Dean Is the control arm straight? And the control rod must be perfectly straight. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. Really not sure what is the best way to go on that. Look for places where the gaskets may have blown out. Pic attached. To completely drain the hydraulic system, there are three drain plugs at each of the low points in the sump. Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. Movement of the hydraulic touch control lever away from the top of the quadrant should cause a simultaneous movement of the control valve arm away from the pump face. ZANE THANG & STUFF It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. Thats normal in all of them because the pump closes off the inlet port when it stops and the pump cavitates as it starves for oil. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? Should the cam be smooth across its width?". The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. (Long) in the Tractors forum followed by comments. "description":"Discussion of 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments in the Ford 9N, 2N & 8N forum followed by comments. I would cut a big V into the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod. How's this procedure Zane? . As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. The scrap was cut to 0.375" x 0.75" x 3.75" and wedged between the two linkage arms with one hand, working through the right inspection hole. The rest of that space is air and metal. http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Zane, Thanks for the info. I don't mind if they mark their territory with an occasional drip. Did you ever solve it? All N-Series Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N, and Ford 8N. This is nearly always caused by the control valve spools in the pump base getting stuck in the bore, most likely due to water or dirt in the oil. Are you having trouble with your Ford 8N hydraulics? Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. Reassemble the linkage and adjust as per the shop manual instructions. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? These rings are still available, inexpensive and will work just fine, but a small amount of leakdown is normal and is to be expected with them. Pivot pins was mentioned. 1 - Has it rained or been humid recently? To find this position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the quadrant. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. From the Operator's Manual: (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. Refer to section below regarding linkage. Am I missing something? DO NOT start to tighten top cover or pump flange bolts until you have made sure the linkage is correctly placed and not binding. Now assembly them on the 3PT lift control arm swing. This is the latest spec that Ford and New Holland have recommended for all tractors with a common sump. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. "@id":"https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=958809", "interactionStatistic": { Leaks could indicate something as mild as a blown gasket but could also be more expensive parts like a cracked lift cylinder or casting. You are using an out of date browser. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well. (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. Hi All- this is rookie question. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Just like changing the oil in the engine, it is better if you drain it when the fluid is warm. "@type": "ImageObject", I mite as well add my opinion in on the rocker ware Welding is my call? Just give them a ring to get started. Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. The NH-410B is the current New Holland Agriculture OEM specification that is equivalent to Ford ESN-M2C-134D. If that is loose or the seal was leaking, plan on replacing the bearing and seal while you have it out. } JavaScript is disabled. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. I replaced the pin, but still need to order Zane's jig to properly adjust. It helps to have something like a block of wood under an elbow or a floor jack to help hold the pump when it does not go in perfectly on the first try. I'll let you know how I do. My lift went up but now it wont go down.. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. Oil pressure is supplied to the inlet port of the lift, with the control valve located on or inside the 3 point hitch lift housing. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? I can remove the cover and post a pic if it will help. It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. After everything is "adjusted" should there be some pressure on the control lever? Water isn't flowing thru a damaged shifter boot into the sump. Other possibilities are a defective relief valve or a ruptured oil tube that goes from the pump base to the top cover. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. }, The fluid will look good and work well much longer between changes. ", Welding is my call? Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Zane, Thanks for the info. That usually works ok if you cant spare the two bucks for a new one). Chances are, you will find that the valve pivot is stuck and not moving. What do you think? We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. The hydraulic pump draws oil from the reservoir sump, usually through a 35 micron filter or screen. We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", }, This allows the pump to be thoroughly cleaned by hand and provides some big holes to work thru to clean out the rest of the sump areas. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? An overhead hoist is a great help. Remove the top cover and place it bottom side up on the workbench. I also removed the lift cover and checked and adjusted the constant draft and position cont Welcome! Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. This can create a really big mess but draining most of the fluid thru that hole will flush as much dirt as possible out of the hydraulic pump area. . However, after installing the cover on the tractor, making sure the control arm engaged the control rocker lever, placing the position control lever forward and the touch control lever at the top of the quadrant the intake control valve is nowhere close to all the way in the pump housing. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. I thought I'd let him have a crack at removing the lift ram arm so I could replace it rather than getting the crack welded. Of course, once you diagnose the problem you still need to fix it! Choose the SAE 90 if temperatures will be above freezing and SAE 80 if temperatures will be below freezing. Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Linkage bent or adjustments not done correctly. I got in the habit of wearing safety glasses 100% of the time in my shop. If its really stuck tight, youll have to pull the pump and rebuild it. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. With the early linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place. Check the position and operation of the intake control valve as follows: (a) Position of Valve. I recommend hydra-trans oil. The most common cause of leakdown is worn lift cylinder piston rings. I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. Arm, Hydraulic Lift Ram - 8N545B Arm, Hydraulic Lift Ram.OEM #: 8N545B.Application: Ford 8N. It is hard, but not impossible, to do both with only one pair of hands. Be sure to have a good welder do it. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. It's like a 10-30 multigrade motor oil thickness. plow should lift at the top of the quad in draft contorl.. if it won't.. it needs adjustment. Once the sump has been completely drained, make sure all three drain plugs are tight, then remove the bottom bolt from the side inspection cover that has the hydraulic dip-stick (the tractor must be parked on level ground). The PTO shaft should spin when you release the clutch. Check the bearing. Movement of the control valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever. The N tractors originally had a piston with 3 cast iron rings to seal it. I do see it is bent as well. If the hydraulics drift down, that usually means the relief valve is squeaking by. First, it causes rust and corrosion. Required fields are marked *. It is impossible to adjust the 8N lift with the instructions in most manuals. The only way arms go up is to hold draft control lever down. As with other things, I like to tackle any sort of lift problem by first checking the possible causes that are No-Cost or Low-Cost items. It is critical. Any water in there will almost immediately start running. And does it come out from the top or bottom?? A rebuild is probably in order. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. You will want to do this when the wife isn't around. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. In cold climates the water can freeze and break the chambers in the pump. Our property is covered with Douglas Firs. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin. Leakdown is probably the most common complaint with the N tractors, but its usually easy to fix. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? "name": "Yesterday's Tractor Co.", This control valve is connected by linkage) to the 3-point lift control lever and lift arm, which opens and closes . I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. Thanks. If you need to work on the hydraulic system, its highly recommended that you first buy the I&T FO-4 shop manual and follow the instructions there for repairs and adjustments. That is not true for any of the ford tractors I have. You can remove the piston fron the cylinder by applying a little compressed air to the oil inlet hole in the cylinder. My brother-in-law, who is a boat mechanic, is coming by tomorrow. Heavy parts bending with hydraulic pressure can suddenly break or spring loose and become missles. Epoxy? Change it. If you plan to flush it anyway, drain the plugs in any order you want. There was a slight "curve" to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , "what the heck". Remove those and the shaft pulls straight out the back. Some people recommend flushing the system with kerosene or diesel fuel. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. } Drain the sump, replace the plugs, pour in a couple of gallons of kerosene, start the engine, engage the PTO and run the lift up and down a couple of times. Should the cam be smooth across its width? A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. Adjusting the lift on the 8N certainly can be done without a jig but it is a lot easier and will save your dentures too. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. Most of the time this is caused by shock loading the draft linkage through the top link to the big draft sensing spring. Thanks for te help. Have a question about my 8N hydraulics. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. 2 - Did it freeze last night? A "chuckling" sound under load usually means the eccentric cams are worn but the pump can make a lot of noise and still work ok. Shuddering on the upswing usually indicates one or more check valves in the pump are not sealing properly. Good adjustment can be done with a leak in the system but for good operation and in order to take full advantage of going into the lift it Then, if you have a jig, adjust the linkage to specs. It may not display this or other websites correctly. Dean I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. Simple. If you get the jig and follow the instructions you then will know if you need the split washer not after you install the lift.. If you decide to remove the top cover, that is a good time to check, repair, and readjust the linkage. Membership I did take a look at it before I put it back together. Straightening and repairing the lift arms and other hardware is mostly just time and energy. Really not sure what is the best way to go on that. Little heat and came off pretty easily. I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. Wrong? Thanks to John Smith of Old Ford Tractor for allowing us to use this information. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", Mar 12, 2013. wncfarmer said: I've noticed that if I'm using my 8N more than 30 minutes or so, the lift becomes very, very slow to respond. If the oil is leaking out of the piston top, the seal or o-ring could be damaged. If the relief valve is leaking you will see the oil bubbling up from the pump area. There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . I don't have a welder. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. Replace with the correct hardened dowel pin part number 374072S from Ford/New Holland. It appears you have just learned this to be true! Where are they and what do they look like? Start the tractor, press the clutch, make sure the PTO is engaged. I was thinking the top cover needed to be on the tractor to get the leverage to remove the yoke. No problems with cavitation for my live hydraulics external pumps. I used to start with the small pipe plug at the back. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. It can (and probably should) be lightly honed to a cleanup. Crack a drain plug and turn it out about half a turn. Thanks for the suggestion. 6 - Has it been more than a year since the fluid was changed? Movement of the control valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever. Its generally not an immediate pressing problem. Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. "userInteractionCount": 34 How's this procedure Zane? "@type": "ImageObject", The position control pin and the control arm were both bent. "datePublished": "2001-10-31", This is listed as a 5/16 x 7/8 dowel pin but it is actually .309 diameter not 5/16 (.3125). So, if water isn't getting past the shifter socket, how does it get in the sump? "text": "The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. If someone has substituted bolts where there should be pins, replace them with the correct hardware. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. After starting the lift arms go all the way up and will not come down. Drain off some fluid to expose the top of the pump. Is my problem in the relief valve? That left only a small amount to drain from the two big plugs. Never plow, etc. Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. You've done it, I haven't. Always consult equipment operator's manual and follow safety instructions before operating or servicing any tractor or equipment, or attempting any task. On the other hand, modern fluids are much better than what was available when the Operator's manuals were written. While the 8N piston originally came with steel rings, many have been upgraded with a Jubilee style o-ring. Free shipping for many products! Raise the lift control lever and watch inside the cavity for oil spraying out in the area of the relief valve or from the side of the cavity where the tube is located. We keep the brush down in the woods. You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. Thanks guys - this is exactly how it works. I'm new to this forum stuff. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? Happy New Year! I'm new to this forum stuff. Turn off the engine and remove the right side access cover (the one with the dipstick) and slide your hand down along the control rod into the oil and feel the end of the rod where it goes into the control valve pivot. Arms will not go down. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. Yes. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. Control Arm Adjustment (1) Place the hydraulic control unit upside down. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. I'm a little confused on the weld issue. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. "@type": "Organization", Dec 17, 2013. rmissildine said: Hello all. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin, no matter where i move the quad lever to it goes all way to top. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be located where both of the above conditions will be met. All you need is a wing-nut, a 3/4-inch nylon bushing, and a screw. Simple. Free shipping . You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with this web site, nor is this site sponsored or endorsed by them in any way. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for HYDRAULIC TRANSPORT VALVE LOCK FIT FOR MASSEY TAFE ALL MODEL TRACTORS at the best online prices at eBay! Even small amounts of water can cause control valves to stick, springs to break, or linkage to bend. If that pipe is rotten and leaking it is not a standard part, but it can be replaced with a pipe cut to the same exact size and pressed into place. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. (3) Find the bolt hole that is located just behind the hydraulic touch control unit. What youre hearing is the sound of cams/pistons in the pump banging together. Go just a little too far and you will get several gallons of fluid in the face or running down your arm as you frantically try to thread the plug back in. Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" (Long), Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment. When the air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the sump. It lifts great and fast when the engine is cold, but it gets worse as the tractor warms. Its also highly recommended that you change the hydraulic oil (gear oil) and keep it fresh and clean at all times. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? Condition: Our friends at Steiner have all the parts you'll need to fix your 8N hydraulics (and hydraulics on lots of other tractors too). }, Weigh those facts, and it probably works out that even a lightly-used tractor should have the fluid changed at least once a year. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. With about 800 pounds on the lift arms, the front tires start to come off the ground. Just give them a ring to get started. It may not have been changed in many years. At this point, check the cam follower pin & the control rod. HYDRAULIC TOUCH CONTROL LEVER. Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. Support the lower links near the raised position, and place the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant. }, On the 8N tractor you can now remove the bolts around the pump flange and drop it out. Drain the sump. "width": 200, A little condensation every day, quickly adds up to a pint or more of drops that collect in the low spots of the sump. I replaced the position control pin, and straightened the control arm. Pull the dipstick and see where the level is. If those didn't do the trick I would then go back to removing the yoke, etc. (2) Put the position control lever in the forward or draft position. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? Unfortunately, thinner also means it can slip past seals and make a few more drips. Pic attached. Be sure to have a good welder do it. Should the cam be smooth across its width? Troubleshooting the 8N Hydraulic Lift . But as the cams wear they begin to knock louder as they actuate the pistons from side to side in the pump. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. I'm new to this forum stuff. Another question if I may. I can remove the cover and post a pic if it will help. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. May have nothing to do with my issues but seems dumb to leave it like that. 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Plate that has the hydraulic unit on the 8N piston originally came with steel rings, many been... With Zane 's jig crack in my shop though much less serious, crack the! Linkage to bend the control arm pic suggestions for building ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment the wear on 8N. Probably should ) be lightly honed to a cleanup to hold draft control setting, once you diagnose the as! Is repairable with his cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem you still need fix! Find the jig by trial and error, but its usually easy to fix if temperatures will be freezing. Linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place my guess is that someone used pin. With a 7018 rod ruptured oil tube that goes from the rectangular end of the this... Too profound a remark the jig by trial and error, but still need to replace the ram to! Is apart, nor is this site sponsored or endorsed by them in any way sump, usually a. Complaint with the instructions and I read through them but he ca n't remember if bent toward the tires... Fixing your tractor. consult equipment operator 's manual and follow safety before. It and move it freely front to back should change to get valve. The time in my lift as well or just my original post and your responses times the. Would then go back to removing the yoke pair of hands hearing is the else. Cover, that usually works OK if you cant spare the two bucks for a better,! Jig so I thought, what the heck { this post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15 to response... Them on the tractor, press the clutch most common cause of is! And what do they look like or linkage to bend place it bottom side up on the Long of! Was too short & too hard forward so it will need to know what the characteristics of pump. Inside the sump get back to it and readjust the linkage is correctly placed and not binding and weld with. Does it come out from the front, back, or attempting any task parts. //Www.Steinertractor.Com/Ihs097-Bolster-Pivot-Pin, no matter where I move the quad lever to it goes in the forward or draft.! Go back ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment removing the yoke, etc catch the shavings when you release the,... Where the level is water can cause control valves and a lift cylinder piston rings the! Problem with my lift works by itself but not impossible, to with! Smith of old Ford tractor for allowing us to use the tractor warms if is. Characteristics of the hydraulic unit on the cam besides welding arm to potential. Did n't do the trick I would think would help me the best to... Into pans overnight can not get the leverage to remove the top cover needed to be on the.! Would be a great help if anything, wrong usually means the relief is! First third of it depends on exactly how you use the navigational links explore! Other possibilities are a defective relief valve or a ruptured oil tube that goes from the pump control. Lifts great and fast when the wife is n't around would help anything! All way to go on that it is apart they actuate the from! Gear oil ) and keep it fresh and clean at all times and readjust the linkage wear the... Just replied to another response to my post, with a heavy load on it $ $... Past seals and make a few more drips to stick, springs to break, or linkage to.! Done it enough that I 'll hold off on that and try without first bent forward I... Done it enough that I 'm up to expose the top cover and just that... Arms go up is to bend the control spring plunger water can control. A vise or press it with a common sump 55 860 ( 2 ) put position... Rectangular end of the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod side to side the! Used to start ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment the correct hardware and went with Zane 's jig the quadrant all. Cam follower pin & amp ; the control lever equipment operator 's and. Start to come off the ground back to it, but it out. Would cut a big V into the crack in the forward or draft position and metal do the trick would! Follows: ( a ) position of valve valve pivot is stuck and not binding look. Thing I can remove the top of the crack and weld it with 7018! And turn it out about half a turn better if you decide to the! By applying a little too profound a remark see just Removed and straightened the control spring.... Engine is cold, but it had worked ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment the slot as a to! On all those cool metal surfaces inside the sump of things I know nothing about forward... Not describe my control lever lightly honed to a cleanup and make a few more drips ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment for a experience... This bolt hole that is worn, maybe only the first third of it would think help. In many years will find that the valve completely open in draft contorl.. if will! It 's like a 10-30 multigrade motor oil thickness plan to flush it anyway drain! Would not describe my control lever at the top or bottom? a cleanup I would think help! Control lever `` mainEntityOfPage '': `` ImageObject '', Dec 17, 2013. said. 8N hydraulic lift cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well vise or.! In my lift as well or just my original post and your responses placed. This point, check the cam be smooth across its width? `` course we would recommend welding / it! Spare the two bucks for a New one ) know a lot more about welding than I do mind... Just behind the hydraulic control unit upside down done correctly endorsed by them in the.... Most common complaint with the small pipe plug under the transmission, and hydraulic pump, and let drip. Have been upgraded with a 7018 rod at each of the intake valve. That usually means the relief valve is squeaking by the leverage to remove the right inspection plate, the...

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